Volcanoes, Catamarans, and a Border-Control Heist.
Day 41 – Seven Rides, Three Lakes, One Cookie Crime.
A travel day between countries doesn’t sound thrilling until you realise it involves four buses, three boats, and some of the most jaw-dropping lakes in South America. Suddenly, it’s not just a travel day… It’s a mini epic.
We waved goodbye to Bariloche bright and early, hopped on our first bus, and glided across the glittering waters of Lake Nahuel Huapi. Then came bus #2 to Puerto Frías, where we boarded a catamaran that skimmed across Lake Frías so serenely it felt almost staged.
Goodbye, Argentina! Hello, Chile!
But first… customs. Chilean customs officers are famous for their… enthusiasm. I thought I’d learned my lesson after the Great Peanut Incident in San Pedro de Atacama (don’t ask). This time, I made sure to check every corner of my bag. Except, apparently, the one holding our cookies and snacks for the long bus ride.
Confiscated. All of it.
I swear, they looked almost gleeful about it. Somewhere in Chile, a border officer is enjoying my almond cookies.
After that minor heartbreak, it was smooth sailing, literally. Another catamaran took us across Lake Todos los Santos under a flawless blue sky, surrounded by volcanoes that looked straight out of a fantasy film. The weather gods clearly decided we’d earned a reward for our patience (and cookie sacrifice).
By 7:30 p.m., we finally rolled into Puerto Varas, exhausted but completely awed. Twelve hours, seven rides, three lakes, two countries…and one less bag of cookies.
Tomorrow, we start exploring Chile’s Lake District and settle the ultimate debate: Argentina vs. Chile, who wears their lakes better? Stay tuned for the showdown!
Day 42 – Osorno, Calbuco, and the Curious Fox.
Today was a day of volcanoes, lakes, and forests, basically Patagonia’s greatest hits on shuffle. Around Puerto Varas, you can’t turn your head
without a majestic volcano photobombing your view.
We started early, heading toward the famous Osorno Volcano, perched on the northern shore of Lago Llanquihue (try saying that three times fast).
Osorno is the poster child of volcanoes, perfect pyramid shape, eternally capped with snow, and often playing peekaboo with the clouds.
But today, miracle of miracles, we got clear blue skies! For once, it was obvious where the volcano ended and the heavens began, a photographer’s dream and
an over-sharer’s Instagram jackpot.
Across the lake stands Calbuco Volcano, which, unlike Osorno, has a bit more attitude. Its name means “Blue Lake,” though the lake and glacier that inspired it have long since vanished after one too many eruptions (the last one in 2022). Still, Calbuco keeps its name, a bit of volcanic nostalgia, I guess.
We began the day with a lovely hike around Laguna Verde, a lush appetiser of Chilean oaks, bamboo, and that ever-present view of the volcanoes shimmering over the lake. From there, we drove up Osorno and hiked to the Red Crater, a small, not-very-red crater that made up for its modest looks with jaw-dropping views.
From up there, Calbuco stood proud in front of us, and Lago Llanquihue gleamed below like a sapphire catching the sun.
On the way down, nature gifted us an unexpected encounter: a South American grey fox (or maybe a Culpeo) standing right by the road, as if posing for National Geographic. He wasn’t scared, just mildly intrigued, like we were interrupting his afternoon plans. We admired him until he got bored and gracefully disappeared into the forest, probably rolling his eyes at us tourists.
By then, our stomachs had opinions, so we headed toward the Petrohué Falls and found the perfect riverside lunch spot, complete with postcard views and zero crowds. The official waterfalls could wait; we had our own private version, complete with sandwiches and serenity.
One last stop remained, the mysteriously named Solitary Trail. Except… it turned out to be too solitary. We saw the sign, we followed the road, we looped back and… nothing. The trail had vanished like it never existed. Maybe it was being true to its name.
By 5 p.m., we accepted defeat and headed back to Puerto Varas, tired but grinning. Tomorrow, we explore the other side of this volcanic wonderland, assuming the trails show up this time.
